How to shop for leather goods

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How to shop for leather goods

When shopping for leather wallets, jackets and other goods, judge quality by checking the terminology on the labels. Here's what those words mean.

Is top grain leather better than full grain? What's the difference between aniline and drum dyed leather? You should know the answers to questions like these before you fork out one penny; otherwise you may end up getting lesser quality than what you thought you paid for.

The product labels and advertising materials are your guide to the leather's quality. But if you, like most people, are only baffled by the unfamiliar terms and descriptions you find there, help is at hand. Just take this glossary with you on your next shopping trip.

Full grain leather: This is as close to the original hide as you can get, showing the character of skin in its natural state — texture, wrinkles and other imperfections. It is the strongest, and usually considered the best, type of leather.

Top grain leather: When a thinner, softer leather is called for, the hide is "split" — that is, the layer with the grain, or surface texture, is peeled away from the inner, or flesh side, layer. Top grain leather is more supple, but retains the visual attributes of full grain leather.

Split leather: The inner layer that's left after the top grain is removed. It is preferred for gloves and other leather goods that need to be very pliable.

Suede: Made from split (inner layer) leather which has been brushed to create a velvety nap on the surface.

Nubuc: Like suede, it has a brushed finish. The difference is that nubuc is made from top grain rather than split leather.

Napa or Nappa leather: Full grain leather tanned with chromium salts to make it softer, yet still durable.

Calfskin: Made from the skin of a calf rather than adult cow, it is prized for its fine grain and softness. Slink is leather made from an unborn calf.

Aniline dye: A transparent dye that allows the leather’s natural grain to show through.

Drum dyeing: The dye fully saturates the leather. This process also ensures that all skins in the drum will come out the same color.

Glazed leather: Its high gloss finish is achieved with high-pressure mechanical smoothing, unlike patent leather which has an applied coating.

Oiled leather: Waterproof leather mostly used in shoes and outerwear. Oiled leather items should be maintained by periodically rubbing them with a lanolin-based leather oil.

You will usually see these terms referring to cowhide. Leather goods made from other animal skins are also available, including lamb, ostrich, kangaroo and stingray (also called shagreen).

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